Downtown Napa

Gateway to the Valley

Once upon a time, there were two Napas. The town, a sleepy workaday community. And the valley, a chic playground for the well-heeled wine lovers, well known as wine ground for the Napa community. That dichotomy has disappeared.

Downtown Napa has become a destination in its own right while also serving as the main hub for exploring the valley that runs for 30 miles in length to its north. There's plenty to see, eat, drink and do in downtown Napa, led by a strong concentration of tasting rooms, now numbering more than 40. These urban spaces typically do not require reservations (unlike most upvalley tasting rooms) and offer a more casual and accessible experience. Restaurants, hotels and music venues abound, and the town's walkable streets are lively, lined with shops, galleries and more. Downtown has a thriving coffee, cocktail and craft beer culture, too, adding to the energy.

The evolution began in the early 2000s when vintner Robert Mondavi opened Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts along the Napa River. Today, a branch of the Culinary Institute of America occupies the space, offering classes, seminars and a restaurant. Oxbow Public Market, opened in 2007, features artisanal food vendors, specialty shops, restaurants and a wine bar under one roof. The three-day music festival BottleRock draws a diverse audience whose interests are reflected in the many new businesses popping up.

First Street Napa is a centerpiece for the downtown area. A three-block, 325,000-square-foot mixed-use development, it features dozens of shops and restaurants, anchored by the Archer Hotel. On weekends, the hotel's rooftop restaurant and bar buzz with energy. Phase two is under construction and will add a 160-room hotel and 78-unit condominium building, both with rooftop access. The expansion will create a pedestrian-friendly corridor extending to Main Street.

The city has also integrated the Napa Wine Train into its cultural identity. The 2-mile stretch of semi-industrial backyards that the train passes through has been transformed into the Rail Arts District, where murals and art installations wrap around switch boxes and line a paved walking path. Food City, near downtown, has emerged as a hot spot, home to a specialty market, the popular Naysayer Coffee, a fried chicken joint, a taqueria, even a cat café. Good Pantry, a zero-waste grocery store, has also opened there.

This fresh-faced Napa doesn't live in the valley's shadow. It complements the region, blending wine, food, art, culture and community into an experience that feels distinctly, confidently Napan.

Hestan Napa

With more than 40 tasting spots to choose from, there is no shortage of wines to explore in downtown Napa. Hours and days open can vary among these venues, typically ramping up as the weekend approaches. Many accept walk-ins, but for the best experience we recommend securing an appointment. Tasting rooms are part of the hospitality industry, and tipping for excellent service is always appreciated.

Stanley Cheng is both a vintner and a kitchen innovator, founder of Meyer Corporation, one of the largest cookware companies in the world. So it makes sense that when he and his wife, Helen, opened their downtown Napa spot (they have a tasting room in Yountville as well), the couple combined their loves into a new concept: part restaurant, part cookware boutique. Guests can enjoy the talents of chef Mark Dommen, formerly of One Market Restaurant, while admiring the showroom of products and appliances and enjoying the lineup of wines.

1300 First Street, Suite 291

hestan.com/hestan-napa

Mayacamas Downtown

If you can't make the journey to visit the remote Mayacamas estate on Mount Veeder, you can head to their chic downtown tasting room to sample current releases or library vintages by the bottle or glass in a more accessible setting.

1256 First Street

mayacamas.com

Cadet Wine & Beer Bar

The vibe here is trendy and cool, a dark spot with loud music that speaks to a younger crowd. There's an impressive selection of international wines and cocktails. Small bites include grilled cheese and a chocolate panini with marshmallow whip.

930 Franklin Street

cadetbar.com

Gentleman Farmer Bungalow

Owners Joey Wolosz and Jeff Durham's Gentleman Farmer Bungalow is a welcome addition to the downtown Napa scene, offering an intimate experience. A renovated Craftsman home built in the 1920s has been reimagined into a cozy, homey spot where guests are welcome to enjoy a glass, a bottle, or take on a unique experience in which the owners prepare family recipes and share stories.

1564 First Street

gentlemanfarmerwines.com

More Downtown Napa Tasting Rooms

Angèle Restaurant & Bar

The dining scene in downtown Napa is diverse, from white tablecloth establishments to more casual spots. Many restaurants offer seasonal specials that highlight locally grown and raised ingredients. You can easily find vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Servers are reliably ready with wine recommendations, and restaurants also regularly welcome winemakers and wine collectors. Check ahead to confirm corkage policies and hours of operation: They can vary throughout the week and year; for example, many places are closed for lunch Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Since it opened in 2002, Angèle has set the bar for food and wine in downtown Napa, with French countryside cuisine meeting warm service in both a comfy interior and a big outdoor space (when the weather permits). Classic onion soup, tuna or beef tartare, escargot, beef bourguignon and croque monsieur are typically on the menu, as are handmade pastas, seasonal salads and the must-order flowerpot full of French fries. The wine list is thoughtful and mixes French sensibilities with local wines.

540 Main Street

angelerestaurant.com

Celadon

Celadon has quietly and consistently been a go-to place for excellent food since 1996. The setting is a relaxing garden courtyard and adjacent dining room, the menu a mix of California, Mediterranean and Asian influences. The dinner- and brunch-only menu features wine-friendly items like pork belly lettuce cups, Moroccan braised lamb shanks and the signature wild mushroom risotto.

500 Main Street, Suite G

celadonnapa.com

Con Amor

Con Amor is a fun new place showcasing top-notch Mexican dishes, including chile relleno, gorditas, mole chicken wings and birria, a Sunday special. The black matte walls, chandeliers and Día de los Muertos vibe provide a charming setting. This is an excellent spot for inventive mezcal and tequila-based cocktails, like the La Teresota, with tequila, alma finca, lime and salt foam.

815 Main Street

iloveconamor.com

La Toque

  • Award: Grand Award

Located inside the Westin Verasa, chef Ken Frank's space has helped define wine country cuisine, focusing on seasonal and inventive food, including a vegetarian tasting menu in addition to a traditional omnivore tasting menu. But Frank is perhaps at his best when working with luxury ingredients; this year is the 44th edition of his "All Black Truffle Menu" with truffles slipped into every course. A Wine Spectator Grand Award winner since 2014, the wine list is one of the best in the area. This is truly a fine dining experience, but with plenty of warmth to the service.

1314 McKinstry Street

latoque.com

Scala Osteria & Bar

From the moment it opened, this offshoot of the popular Bistro Don Giovanni has been packed with locals and tourists alike, drawn to the southern Italian coastal fare with Mediterranean details, including pan-seared branzino, petrale sole piccata and poached octopus salad. There are also wood-fired pizzas, handmade pastas and a thin and crisp pork chop Milanese. The wine and cocktail lists cater to the fresh fare on the menu.

1141 First Street

scalaosteria.com

The Dutch Door

Look for the Dutch door, a horizontally split door, on Randolph Street, around the corner from the First Street address. You'll probably see plenty of people waiting to pick up their to-go only food. Fried chicken is the signature dish here, which can be served with either Cajun, Korean or Spanish spices, as either tenders or in a sandwich. Vegetarian options are plentiful, with a made-from-scratch plant burger crafted with quinoa, roasted mushrooms and peppers, kale, black beans and chickpeas. There are also plant-based bowl options and a beef hot dog with caramelized onions and crushed potato chips.

1245 First Street

thedutchdoornapa.com

Torc Napa

Torc is one of those rare restaurants that can make delicious food in many directions, from a sweet potato pakora to black truffle grilled cheese to English pea risotto. The food is immensely pairable with wine, and the staff can handily help you navigate a wine pairing, even with creative dishes like duck breast with blood orange, radish and Oaxacan bitter chocolate sauce. The service is friendly, the space is open and airy, with exposed stone walls and wood floors and a peek into the kitchen in the back.

1140 Main Street

torcnapa.com

Contimo Provisions

Fresh-baked biscuits, homemade pimento cheese, luxurious sandwiches and gourmet pantry items are all on offer at this bright and cheerful spot.

950 Randolph Street

contimonapa.com

Genova Delicatessen

Sandwiches here are generous, many with an Italian spin, and there is both a hot and cold selection of deli salads. Imported Italian goods are also sold, as are homemade ravioli and sauces, soups and meatballs. Before anyone reminds you, take the cannoli.

550 Trancas Street

genovadelinapa.com

Grace's Table

Grace's Table is open all day serving international bistro food, but the iron skillet cornbread served with lavender honey butter, the shrimp and grits, the chilaquiles and cinnamon rolls make it ideal for breakfast or brunch.

1400 Second Street

gracestable.net

Le Paris Artisan and Cafe

Not only does the pastry selection include cropuffs, sticky buns and crème brûlée brioche, there are also wonderful savory options, like a fresh-baked croissant with smoked salmon, scrambled eggs and crème fraîche. If the purple ube or decadent tres leches offerings catch your eye, you should absolutely try them.

828 Brown Street

lepariscafe.com

Moulin Bakery

It might be hidden in an alley behind First Street, but once you find Moulin it will no doubt be full of patrons spilling onto the few outdoor tables. Expertly made coffees and French-style pastries are a draw here, including the most crunchy, delicate viennoiseries imaginable.

1321 First Street

moulinbakerycoffee.com

Naysayer Coffee

Located in Food City, Naysayer has some of the best coffee in town, with some of the friendliest service. Seasonal beverages are inspired, like an horchata latte or spiced chamomile latte, and small bites are precise and fresh. A second location recently opened up north of downtown.

1813 Old Sonoma Road

naysayercoffee.com

Ohm Coffee

The "ohm" here refers to the musical term for the measure of electrical resistance in an amplifier; founder Derek Bromley is not only a rock guitarist, he also worked in the wine industry and he applies both of these approaches to his coffee, featuring single-origin roasts in a rock 'n' roll setting. A second location near the Rail Arts District is his coffee roastery and lab, where classes in cupping, latte art and brewing methods are taught.

1412 Second Street

ohmcoffee.com

Winston's Cafe and Bakery

This bright and airy café is known for generous plates of breakfast and lunch and an eye-popping assortment of baked goods, donuts and pastries. It can be busy, but orders move quickly.

1517 Third Street

winstonsnapa.com

Oxbow Public Market

This public market is a popular gathering place for foodies and wine lovers, with multiple culinary vendors in one location. There are shops for ingredients and specialty items, as well as some very tasty restaurants. Ritual Coffee Roaster has been an anchor since the market opened in 2007, one of the best places for a cup of coffee or tea in the area. Hog Island Oyster Company is also a mainstay, with fresh and grilled oysters, po' boy sandwiches and more. Don't be dismayed by the line outside Gott's Roadside, it moves quickly and the food comes out promptly, including thick shakes, gourmet burgers, fish tacos, sweet potato fries and inventive salads. Loveski brings pastrami sandwiches, potato latkes, matzoh ball soup and bagels to Napa from chefs Christopher and Martina Kostow. Live Fire Pizza specializes in wood-fired pies and small bites. For international flavors, El Porteno features empanadas both sweet and savory, while Moro showcases Moroccan flavored mains on flatbreads, salads or couscous, tasty and fresh. Sumo Dog takes hot dogs and puts a Japanese twist on them, with ingredients like wasabi relish, tonkatsu sauce and furikake. Rotation by Feast It Forward is the newest addition, with a rotation of chef residencies. Bar Lucia is a wine bar with small bites, adjacent to the decadent Kara's Cupcakes. For the sweet tooth, there's also local chocolatier Anette's Chocolates. Fieldwork taproom has 20 beers on tap and Detroit-style pizza. The Walt tasting room is located across the street. Hudson Greens & Goods blends a juice bar with fresh produce and curated pantry goods. Fatted Calf Charcuterie has some of the best high-end butcher and charcuterie items, as well as terrific sandwiches such as a savory porchetta and house-smoked ham with black truffle butter. Whole Spice will inspire your next cooking adventure, as well as give you a place to test your smell memories. And Model Bakery has Oprah's favorite English muffins, fresh-baked breads and plenty of sandwiches, wraps, cookies and pastries.

610 First Street

oxbowpublicmarket.com

More Downtown Napa Dining

Napa River Inn

Day trips from population centers such as Sacramento and San Francisco are popular, but visitors planning a deeper dive into wine country pleasures, most plan a longer stay. The city (pop. 76,000) provides myriad accommodations, including roughly 2,800 hotel rooms (not including projects in development), ranging from expansive resorts to more intimate experiences.

Located at the historic Napa mill and right on the Napa River, this hotel, which dates to the 1880s, is perfectly situated within walking distance of most of the best restaurants and tasting rooms downtown, making it an ideal vacation home base.

500 Main Street

napariverinn.com

Westin Verasa

Westin was the first luxury hotel in downtown Napa, opening in 2008. Its convenient location in the Oxbow District is strolling distance from the Oxbow Market and Napa Wine Train, and it's a short walk across the Napa River to access the rest of downtown. Chef Ken Frank oversees the restaurants here, including Wine Spectator Grand Award winning La Toque and the more casual yet still elevated Bank Café and Bar in the lobby.

1314 McKinstry Street

marriott.com/en-us/hotels/sfonw-the-westin-verasa-napa

More Downtown Napa Lodging

SidebarA Carneros Adventure

A companion feature to the Downtown Napa guide, also publishable as a standalone story.

The Wind in Your Hair Tour By MaryAnn Worobiec

Several places around Napa Valley feel completely distinct from the rest of the valley. Carneros stands out with its own microclimate, aromas, ambience and energy.

Driving through Carneros typically means traveling east to west, rather than following Napa Valley's usual north-to-south route. Rolling hills define the landscape more than valley floors or rugged mountains. Curving roads invite leisurely drives and on fair-weather days you can glimpse San Pablo Bay to the south. Because the region sits so close to the bay, maritime winds sweep through Carneros, especially during the summer. Towering eucalyptus trees serve as windbreaks and release a camphorlike fragrance into the air.

Start a day exploring the Napa side of Carneros (the region also stretches west into Sonoma) with donuts, specifically, the famous ones at Boon Fly Café. Located at Carneros Resort and Spa, the bright red, barn-style restaurant welcomes guests through a separate entrance off Sonoma Highway. You might order the chicken and waffles, Dungeness crab Benedict or corned beef hash, but save room for the donuts, they make the perfect sweet finish to breakfast.

Next, drive fewer than 10 minutes to Bouchaine Winery. On a clear day the property offers sweeping bay views. The wines are precise and aromatic, and the winery hosts dynamic educational programs. On Friday mornings, the "Falconry in the Garden" experience is truly unique: A master falconer introduces guests to raptors, perhaps a hawk, owl or falcon, and explains how these birds partner with vineyard teams, how they hunt and how they see. You can even pose for a photo with the birds, all while enjoying a glass of wine.

Just five minutes away, Domaine Carneros rises from a hilltop like a fairy-tale château. Climbing the romantic, grand staircase brings countless photo opportunities. Domaine Carneros has built its reputation on exceptional sparkling wines and a wide range of tasting experiences. Two stand out in particular. The "Art of Sabrage" teaches guests to open a bottle of sparkling wine with a sword, a tradition that dates to Napoleon's era. Equally memorable is the "Ultimate Caviar Experience," where sparkling wines are paired with an assortment of Tsar Nicoulai caviar served alongside gourmet potato chips, toast points and crème fraîche.

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